Between the ancient ruins of Centro Historico, the sprawling art markets in San Angel, and the strong cafe culture of Condesa and Roma, Mexico City is a place you could visit 100 times and always find something new. And while it’s essential to pepper in the world-class museums, big green parks, and architecture tours, if you’re like us, the priority will always be the food.
Generally speaking, breakfast and lunch are the main meals here, and dinner tends to be a mere formality. Plan to eat your biggest meal in the afternoon, and keep it simple with a round of tacos or some snacks at a bar in the evening.
ROMA
photo credit: Contramar
Seafood
Roma
$$$$
Perfect For:
Big GroupsOutdoor/Patio Situation
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This probably isn’t the first time you’ve heard of Contramar, and it won’t be the last. It’s legendary for its seafood-focused menu, and you should absolutely make a point to come here for the tuna tostadas and whole fish covered in red and green sauce. Make a reservation for lunch, when the sprawling dining room becomes an all-out party. If this is your first time in CDMX, a meal at Contramar is essential dining.
photo credit: Guillaume Guevara
Mexican
Roma
$$$$Perfect For:Literally EveryoneDrinking Great Cocktails
Plaza Rio de Janeiro could easily be considered the heart of Roma—it’s home to two of the colonia’s most iconic landmarks, La Casa de las Brujas and the statue of David—and it’s also where you’ll find some really excellent restaurants. This includes Marmota, which might just be the best of the bunch. All of their meat is farm-raised, most of their produce is sourced locally, and just about everything on the hearty menu is cooked in a wood oven and comes out nice and smoky. Their cocktail menu is impressive, but we usually stick with one of the many hard cider options, which go great with all that char.
photo credit: Andrew Reiner
Tacos
Roma
$$$$Perfect For:Late NightsCheap Eats
You probably already know that Orinoco has some of the best tacos in town, and even if you’ve been two or three times before, you should still prioritize at least one late-night visit during your trip. Definitely get a round of the tacos de chicharrón—instead of crispy, potato chip-like slices of fried pork rinds, Orinoco’s are soft on the inside and seared on the outside, resulting in a fun mix of textures. And, yes, you should also try their tacos al pastor, which are arguably the best in all of CDMX. In other words: Orinoco is exactly what you’re looking for after a few rounds of mezcal, especially since they’re open until 3:30am during the week and even later on the weekend.
photo credit: Andrew Reiner
Mexican
Roma
$$$$Perfect For:LunchDate NightsOutdoor/Patio Situation
Rosetta is a beautiful restaurant inside a townhouse, with a menu that’s predominantly Italian with a Mexican twist. Expect things like pillowy ricotta-stuffed ravioli swimming in a creamy lemon sauce, and tagliatelle punched up with some chile de árbol. Our favorite time to be here is lunch when the room fills with light, but if you’re traveling with a significant other and looking for a romantic night out, dinner at Rosetta should be at the top of your list. (And yes, you should definitely go to Panaderia Rosetta for pastries across the street.)
photo credit: Guillaume Guevara
Mexican
Roma
$$$$Perfect For:LunchQuick EatsCasual Dinners
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Chicken is a key ingredient in enchiladas, mole, and chilaquiles, so a restaurant entirely focused on poultry makes a lot of sense in CDMX. The options here are varied: you can get a Middle Eastern-inspired grilled flour tortilla sandwich slathered with labneh and shredded chicken, as well as the city’s most famous dish, tacos al pastor, with chicken subbed in for pork. We like to come here for a late lunch and get the whole roasted chicken with a side of rice, potatoes, guacamole, and freshly-pressed corn tortillas. The team behind this fun spot runs Mexico’s most famous churros chain, El Moro, so they’re no strangers to excelling at a short menu.
photo credit: Guillaume Guevara
Wine Bar
Roma
$$$$Perfect For:Drinking Great WineSmall Plates
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Hugo feels like a Lower East Side transplant with a Mexican twist, which we guess is what happens when two former New York residents relocate here and open a place. Their wines, of course, are a highlight—they’re mostly natural, and many of them come from Mexico’s wine region in Valle de Guadalupe. Food-wise they keep it simple, with small plates of things like kampachi crudo and fennel with fava beans (though they also make a fantastic roasted chicken). Reserve a table in advance, or plan on showing up as early as your grandparents would to get a seat.
photo credit: Guillaume Guevara
Korean
Roma
$$$$Perfect For:LunchOutdoor/Patio Situation
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Dooriban’s Korean homestyle cooking took Mexico City’s Korean food scene by storm after the chef started making “Kimchi Mama Park” out of a ghost kitchen in colonia Juarez before becoming a proper restaurant. The kimchi bokkeumbap—bacon fried rice with that excellent fermented cabbage—is the main event, but it’s nearly eclipsed by the Korean fried chicken wings served in a delightfully messy gochujang sauce. If you’ve spent the day walking around Roma, this is a great way to refuel at lunchtime.
photo credit: Guillaume Guevara
Mexican
Roma
$$$$Perfect For:VegansVegetarians
There might be more excellent tacos per square block in Mexico City than anywhere else in the known universe. And while most of them are filled with delicious meats and fish, we’re pretty confident that there are no better vegan tacos than those at Por Siempre Vegana. The taco de milanesa, served with avocado, is incredible, and worth the almost constant wait for a table here during peak hours.
photo credit: Natalie Cohen
Mexican
Roma
$$$$Perfect For:Date NightsFine DiningLunch
Máximo Bistrot is a restaurant that’s kind of French, kind of Mexican, and one of the best spots in town for a hot date or group dinner. It’s a fun, atrium-like space with great cocktails and an equally fantastic wine list, and they do delicious spins on dishes you’ve seen before, like a caesar salad with homemade headcheese. You can go à la carte, but there’s also a tasting menu with an optional wine pairing. And if you’re looking for a meal earlier in the day, they operate a breakfast/brunch spot called Lalo! that’s just a few blocks away.
photo credit: Guillaume Guevara
Japanese
Roma
$$$$Perfect For:Casual DinnersQuick Eats
Noodles are the focus at this newish spot from a chef whose grandfather invented one of Mexico’s most coveted snacks, cacahuates Japoneses, or Japanese peanuts. Following this family tradition, Fideo Gordo fuses traditional Mexican flavors with well-executed Asian dishes. The lamb obi udon—which mixes barbacoa with serrano chiles and handmade udon noodles—is a standout on the focused menu. Don’t just stick to noodles, though: the make-your-own tuna and kampachi taquito is a perfect appetizer.
POLANCO
photo credit: Andrew Reiner
Mexican
Polanco
$$$$Perfect For:Fine DiningUnique Dining Experiences
When you tell someone you’re visiting Mexico City, there’s a 75% chance they’ll respond by saying, “Oh are you going to...what’s that place called?” If you feel like talking to this person, finish their sentence with “Pujol.” This high-end Mexican spot in the middle of Polanco is one of the best-known restaurants in the world, and one of the hardest to get into—reservations open a year in advance, and you’ll need to plan months ahead to get a table. They do a ten-course taco omakase at the bar, as well as a tasting menu in the dining room. Whichever you choose, the star of your meal will be the mole. It’s been cooking continuously since 2013, and tastes like a light and complex melted chocolate.
photo credit: Andrew Reiner
$$$$Perfect For:BirthdaysFine DiningSpecial Occasions
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Quintonil and Pujol have a lot in common. They’re both in Polanco, the chef at Quintonil also worked at Pujol, and Pujol’s most famous dish (the mole madre that’s been cooking for a decade) was initially made to celebrate the one-year anniversary of Quintonil. There’s also a similar focus on local ingredients and beautiful presentations, with a rotating tasting menu for about $240 per person or the option to order things like king crab in pipián verde or and an assortment of insect-based dishes à la carte. If you can’t get a reservation for dinner, then come for one of the best lunches in this city. Or any city.
photo credit: Laura Arlotti
Mexican
Polanco
$$$$Perfect For:Fine DiningVegetarians
Ticuchi is dark—as in very dark—and while that’ll make the experience feel sexy and mysterious, the real appeal here is the food. There’s a heavy vegetarian focus, and corn is the star (the people making fresh tortillas in the front kitchen should clue you in). The menu changes often, but it consistently includes impressive small plates like their outstanding tamal de esquite.
photo credit: Guillaume Guevara
Mexican
Polanco
$$$$Perfect For:Casual DinnersOutdoor/Patio Situation
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Yes, we know there are a lot of seafood spots on this guide, but Bellopuerto isn’t a traditional limey/spicy seafood restaurant like so many others we know and love. Instead, this place serves things like a short rib and octopus burger, and while your brain might start to hurt just thinking about that, we promise it’s great. The roasted bone marrow with crispy octopus chicharron and salsa borracha is another thing you should prioritize. It comes with fresh tortillas and will have you wondering what other versions of chicharrones you’ve been missing out on.
LA CONDESA/HIPODROMO
photo credit: Guillaume Guevara
Seafood
La Condesa
$$$$Perfect For:Big GroupsDrinking Great WineDrinking Great Cocktails
Cantina del Bosque has a traditional cantina setup—white tablecloths on some tables, mariachis making the rounds—but don’t judge it by its 1937 cover. Unlike most cantinas, del Bosque includes a detailed wine list in addition to mezcal, beer, and bourbon options, but the real winner is the seafood. The sea salt-baked fish is deboned tableside, which is pretty fun to watch, and the giant shrimp (shells still on and grilled in a rich mix of butter and garlic) is another must-order. Make sure to save room for the traditional chocolate mousse for dessert.
There’s a large Jewish population in CDMX, and you’d be missing out if you didn’t try one of the Jerusalem-style spots in the city. Merkavá has quietly become a Condesa institution, and it’s without a doubt our favorite Israeli restaurant in the city. Everything here is incredibly tasty, but the freshly baked kubaneh bread with tahini butter is really something: a simple yet incredible side served warm out of the oven as the butter melts all over it. Other standouts include the roasted cauliflower with za’atar and mint yogurt, as well as the masabacha hummus with green peppers.
photo credit: Alicia Vera
Mexican
La Condesa
$$$$Perfect For:Cheap EatsLunch
The best $3 you can spend in Condesa is Pescadito’s quesotote taco: a corn tortilla filled with an entire chile relleno and fried shrimp. This is a casual, cafeteria-style spot with a tight selection of fried shrimp tacos, fried fish tacos, and plenty of beer. And while the menu is short, the variety of unlimited free toppings you can add to your order is anything but, with multiple salsas, coleslaw, and pickled red onion.
photo credit: Guillaume Guevara
French
La Condesa
$$$$Perfect For:BreakfastLunch
There are two sides of Condesa: the touristy area between Parque Mexico and Parque España, and the more residential half. Superette is located in the latter, which also happens to be home to some of the neighborhood’s best neo-colonial architecture. Take a stroll around, and stop here for a galette and a hard apple cider. Like the area itself, it may not be the first place you visit in CDMX, but we can almost guarantee it’ll be one of your favorites. The galettes are delicious (try the classic with comté cheese, egg, and ham) and it’s one of the more affordable places to sit down for a quality snack in the neighborhood.
JUAREZ
Bakery/Cafe
Juárez
$$$$Perfect For:BreakfastBrunch
Cafe Nin is run by the same team as Panaderia Rosetta in Roma Norte, but the wait-time is shorter and the baked goods are just as good. Breakfast is the meal you should prioritize here, especially if you aren’t in a rush—the big, cozy townhouse with bistro-style tables is the perfect place to have a full meal. Fuel up with a big plate of eggs and a few pastries, then spend the rest of the afternoon shopping at the nearby boutiques.
photo credit: Guillaume Guevara
Mediterranean
Juárez
$$$$Perfect For:Date NightsSpecial OccasionsDrinking Great Cocktails
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Taverna may just be the most beautiful restaurant in all of CDMX. It’s housed in a historical, recently restored hacienda from 1905, and most of the restaurant is lit by candlelight. The atmosphere is ideal for a date, a special celebration, or a group dinner that extends late into the night. Most of the Mediterranean-inspired dishes are roasted in a wood-burning oven, with standouts that include dates stuffed with chorizo and wrapped in jamon serrano, fried sardines with a sardine aioli, and a beet carpaccio with a pistachio dressing that should be bottled and sold everywhere. Wash it all down with one of their signature cocktails, like the Pin Tonic, made with gin del bosque and giant olives.
photo credit: Andrew Reiner
Mexican
Juárez
$$$$Perfect For:LunchQuiet Meals
Not much has changed since Paris 16 opened in 1985. There are still linoleum tiles on the floor, Venetian blinds that keep CDMX’s busy Avenida Reforma outside feeling worlds away, and waiters in tuxedo vests, even though the vibe is fairly low-key. The food is a mix of general European-inspired dishes, like an outstanding pechuga parmesana and a tortilla española expertly prepared with the perfect ratio of potatoes to eggs. The chatty owner is there often, greeting guests while personally overseeing the daily menu, and you’ll probably be the only tourist in the place (at least for now).
PEDREGAL
photo credit: Tetetlán
Mexican
San Ángel
$$$$Perfect For:Literally Everyone
The food at Tetetlán is very good, but it isn’t the main reason to stop by. It’s one of the most unique and eye-catching restaurants we’ve ever seen, and it’s located next to the Luis Barragan-designed Casa Pedregal (which you can and should visit). The huge space, formerly the property’s horse stables, is a blend of Barragan architecture and a more modern setup, with a transparent floor exposing the natural volcanic lava stones, and a mix of strange, perfect furniture. There’s a gigantic private book collection scattered throughout the space, which you can browse while going through the huge menu of tacos, tlayudas, and pizzas.
CUAUHTÉMOC
photo credit: Guillaume Guevara
Mexican
Cuauhtémoc
$$$$Perfect For:Casual DinnersLunch
Don Vergas started as a Sinaloa-style seafood stand in a nearby market before opening a standalone spot in Cuauhtémoc. Now, it’s one of the most interesting new seafood restaurants in CDMX (despite the NSFW name—ask your Uber driver on the way over). Everything on their menu tastes as fresh as what you’d find at a Mazatlán seafood shack, but if you have to focus on one thing here, make it the tostada embarazada that’s loaded with shrimp, octopus, crab meat, fish, and scallops. It’s one of the biggest, most delicious tostadas we’ve ever tried, especially when paired with a michelada or two.
SAN MIGUEL CHAPULTEPEC
photo credit: Laura Arlotti
Mexican
San Miguel Chapultepec
$$$$Perfect For:BreakfastLunchVegetarians
There aren’t that many great restaurants in the San Miguel Chapultepec colonia, even though it’s such a centrally-located neighborhood. That’s why we’re glad we have Mari Gold, a small Mexican and Indian restaurant that should be your go-to meal after a visit to the nearby Kurimanzutto art gallery. They have incredible vegetarian options like the Molote Tikki, tender dumplings made of beans and sweet plantains with a sweet and spicy sauce, and the Sabudana Vada, fried tapioca and potato balls with an incredible herb chutney. Save room for the homemade sorbet topped with crispy rice noodles, jam, and condensed milk.
photo credit: Guillaume Guevara
Mexican
San Miguel Chapultepec
$$$$Perfect For:Outdoor/Patio SituationKeeping It Kind Of HealthyLunch
Comal Oculto has a lot in common with Mari Gold: they’re both relative newcomers to the San Miguel Chapultepec colonia, located near famous art museums, and are smaller spots where you’ll sit at communal tables (Oculto actually only has one table that’s set up in the street). But what it lacks in space, it more than makes up for in food.The focus is heirloom corn in its many iterations, from wild mushroom sopes to enchiladas ahogadas to lamb shank gorditas. The menu is small and focused, so we can confidently say that it’s impossible to go wrong.